A trip to Qatar is not a trip like the others. The richest country in the world (according to the IMF's 2018 ranking) fascinates as much as it repels. Within a handful of decades, this small peninsula in the Persian Gulf has shifted from a modest fisheries-based economy and pearl oysters to one of the world's leading exporters of liquid gas. An exponential boom almost worthy of a science fiction story, in which an ultra-modern and wealthy country suddenly emerged from the desert.
But this rapid development has not been smooth. Today, Qatar is accused of some of the worst ills on the planet, such as slavery, oppressing women, financing terrorism or polluting excessively ... The reality is, however, much more complex than the hasty condemnations would have us believe. On a personal level, I am always wary of these peremptory judgments that sort out the "kind" countries that one would have the right to visit and the "bad" countries that should be boycotted. Traveling to Qatar does not mean to condone what is happening there. For my part, I do not forbid the visit of any country. On the contrary, I believe that anything that promotes cross-cultural contacts can be a vector of change and change mentalities on both sides.
With only 160km long, Qatar is a small country that can be easily visited in a few days during a stop-over with Qatar Airways . Regularly noted among the best airlines in the world, it serves many countries in Asia and Oceania. Stopping for 24 hours or more in Qatar on such a trip does not cost more for the plane ticket and allows to discover an additional country en route. Among the must-see attractions is of course the capital, Doha, with its impressive skyline of futuristic skyscrapers and museums made by the world's greatest architects. The second main attraction of the country is its desert and its white sand dunes: the must is a safari in the desertwith sandboard in the dunes and see the inland sea south, near the border with Saudi Arabia. You can also kayak in the mangroves, visit a UNESCO World Heritage site and discover some strange works of art in the desert.
All must-sees to visit in Doha
The skyline of Doha skyscrapers
Doha is like a huge building site where skyscrapers grow faster than mushrooms. When you see his huge skyline, it's hard to imagine that there was barely 20 years ago, apart from the modest apartment buildings of a small capital of a desert country. To distinguish itself from its exuberant neighbor Dubai, which relies on excessiveness and high records, Qatar has called on the world's best-known architects.
The most emblematic tower of Doha is the Qatar Tower , designed by French architect Jean Nouvel (left photo). High 230m, it stands out in the skyline with its rounded shape. Its steel outer structure is reminiscent of oriental moucharabiehs, as on the façade of the Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris, made by the same architect.
The moucharabieh facade of Jean Nouvel's Qatar Tower
Not far away, is the easily recognizable Tornado Tower with its steel blue color and its hyperboloid shape, supposed to represent a whirlwind. At the bottom of the tower is a huge portrait of the Emir of Qatar, Tamin ben Hamad al Thani. Inspired by the stencil, this drawing has in fact become a symbol of Qatar's resistance to the embargo imposed by its neighbors (Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates, Bahrain) since 2017. It is seen everywhere in Doha and the rest of the world. country.
The Museum of Islamic Art in Doha
View of the Doha skyline from the Museum of Islamic Art
If there was only one monument to visit in Qatar, it would be that one. Designed by architect Ieoh Ming Pei, well known in France for having imagined the Louvre Pyramid, the Museum of Islamic Art is a real success, with its white geometric building with clean lines. Located at the end of the Doha Corniche, there is a great view of the skyline, especially from the terraces of the museum.
Inside, a huge, flooded atrium and a double-decker staircase leads to the first floor. It presents a collection of Islamic art unique from the world with a collection of 4000 pieces, of which only 900 are on display. Manuscripts, ceramics, precious stones, carpets, textiles ... From the Middle East, China and Spain, the museum's works date from the 7th century to the present day. Good news: the entrance to the museum is free.
The National Museum of Qatar
I could not visit it during my trip to Qatar because it was still under construction: the inauguration took place in March 2019. The architecture is once again signed by the star of French architecture, Jean Nouvel . The building is a huge rose of sands, the famous desert stone carved by wind and sand. The goal of the Qatar National Museum is to celebrate the country's culture by reconnecting visitors and locals with the traditions of the country.
The Mathaf: Museum of Modern Art
The Museum of Modern Art is a little out of the way, but it's definitely worth it for art lovers. The permanent collection displays the works of contemporary artists from Qatar and the Arab world. For my part I loved it! I was particularly surprised to see several works representing women, some with breasts and feminine forms quite apparent, which is provocative enough for the countries of the Middle East. On the other hand, by taxi it is far and the drivers do not necessarily know where it is. Better to use the free bus service between the Museum of Islamic Art and Mathaf.
The Fire Station Gallery
The Fire Station Gallery is an artists' residence in the heart of Doha, housed in a former fire station. There are exhibitions and we can also meet artists at work in their workshops.
The souq Wakif
No Arab city without its traditional souk ... The Doha is actually quite modern, with clean streets and air-conditioned shops, but it's a nice visit and one of the few places where you can see Qatari families coming for a walk . There are many restaurants with terraces. The traditional souvenir shops, gold jewelery and spices rub shoulders with the most unusual hunting falcon sellers, very popular in Qatar.
Also to do in Doha: the best way to enjoy the view of the Doha skyline is a cruise on a dhow, a traditional wooden boat. The departure is not far from the Museum of Islamic Art and most formulas provide for a meal on board.
Top 5 to see in Qatar outside of Doha
The desert and Khor Al Adaid
To see the desert and beautiful white sand dunes, it is in the south of Qatar that you have to go. This is where you can see the most beautiful natural site in the country: Khor Al Adaid. Just before the border with Saudi Arabia, a sea band of the Arabian-Persian Gulf penetrates inland to form what is called the Inland Sea.
To get there, take a tour from Doha because you have to drive through the desert. This is where drivers engage in dune bashing sessions: hitting sand dunes in 4 × 4. It's awesome and very fun! It is also a popular activity for Qataris on the weekends and it is not uncommon to find cars with sand. Driving in the dunes is quite technical and it is better to have a professional driver for this ...
To extend the desert experience, one can also spend a night in a camp, like the Regency Sealine Camp . The camp is located by the sea, just behind the dunes. There is every comfort with large tents that are also air-conditioned in summer.
Fort Al Zubarah
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Fort Al Zubarah was built in 1938 by Sheikh Abdullah bin Jassim Al Thani. It is a typical fort of the Persian Gulf countries. Its mission was to protect the nearby town of Zubarah, a prosperous fishing port thanks to the pearl trade. His visit is interesting because it is a testimony of the history of Qatar before the discovery of oil. Access: Approximately 1h30 drive from Doha, northwest of Qatar.
The fishing village Al Wakrah
Half an hour south of Doha, Al Wakrah fishing village is a nice getaway from Doha. Traditional Qatari houses contrast with the gigantic towers of the capital. If it's not too hot, you can walk along the wide white sand beach. The streets are quite deserted in the middle of the day, but come to life in the late afternoon with the opening of the shops.
The rock formations of Zekreet
To the west of Doha, one can discover a desert with original rock formations, near the Ras Brouq peninsula. One of the most spectacular sites is the art installation by the American sculptor Richard Serra. Entitled East-West / West-East, it is composed of four steel plates 15 meters high. It's like a sci-fi movie set.
The mangroves of Al Thakira
North of Doha, just after the town of Al Khor, are the mangroves of Al Thakira, a vast area of vegetation at the seaside, populated by different species of birds like herons and flamingos. You can go kayaking, both to enjoy the vegetation and the white sand beaches.
Practical notebook for a trip to Qatar
Formalities: French nationals are issued a visa on arrival free and valid for 90 days. You must have a flight ticket out of the country and a passport valid for more than six months after the date of departure. The only gateway is by plane from Doha Airport because the land border with Saudi Arabia is closed. Check the entry requirements on France Diplomatie .
Usages and dress-code: Qatar is a Muslim country with a fairly strict application of Islam. There is no need to wear the veil for women, but you must have "proper attire": long on the legs and a top that covers the shoulders. No mini skirt or tank top. Otherwise being a woman does not pose any particular problem. I wandered alone without worries in Doha with several trips by taxi or uber. The consumption of alcohol is highly regulated: the only places where it can be consumed are large hotels and luxury establishments for foreigners. On the other hand, as the taxes are very high, the prices are very expensive.
How to get there: I already mentioned in the introduction of this article: the most economical way to visit Qatar is to stop over with a flight booked on Qatar Airways . The Qatari company is one of the best in the world and it offers very good prices to go to Asia or Oceania. A significant advantage for those who are traveling in charge or who want to bring back a lot of memories: the weight of the luggage allowed in eco class is 30kg (40kg in business). In 2019, Qatar Airways was voted the best airline by the Skytrax ranking. On this page, you can check promotional offers to get cheaper.
When to go: the best season for a trip to Qatar is from November to April. From May to October, the temperatures are very hot, and almost unbearable in July-August. I also recommend avoiding the Ramadan period.
Organize your trip: you can easily organize your own trip to Qatar. All you need to do is book your accommodation in Doha and arrange on-site organized tours to the desert. You will find on this site a wide choice of excursions throughout Qatar.
The Sharq Village & Spa in Doha
Where to sleep: There are not many budget hotels in Doha. Most accommodations are luxury hotels. Right next to the Qatar National Museum is the Sharq Village & Spa . It is an elegant marble complex with a beautiful infinity pool. Very nice view of Doha skyline from the hotel's private beach.
Another option is the St Regis Doha . Historic Doha hotel, it is closer to downtown, opposite Sharq Village on the Corniche. Very nice pool and beautiful private beach too. It is at St Regis that the famous British chef Gordon Ramsay has opened a restaurant, the Opal : an excellent buffet by the pool.
Opal Restaurant and St Regis Pool
Where to eat: options are not lacking in Doha, however, again, we must provide a good budget. To taste the specialties of the Middle East, especially Lebanon, I recommend Al Mourjan , with a superb view of the Doha Corniche. Lebanese cuisine is for me one of the best in the world and I never tire of it.
Lebanese specialties with a view of Doha skyline at Al Mourjan restaurant
For fish lovers, eat at L'Wzaar near the Seafood Market. We can choose fresh fish and ask for the cooking that suits us. For those who love meat, I recommend the Astor Grill at St Regis. I ate there among the best meats of my life!
Al Parisa restaurant in Doha's souq Waqif
A very good address near Souq Waqif is the Al Parisa restaurant . Middle Eastern cuisine in an oriental setting that looks like the Arabian Nights ...
The Qatar Football World Cup
A football stadium under construction in Qatar
Those who know my blog and my journey as a traveler know that I love major sporting events and the World Cup is obviously part of it. Since 2010, I have attended three World Cups: in South Africa in 2010 , in Brazil in 2014 , then in Russia in 2018. In 2022, it will take place in Qatar, from November 21st to December 18th. The award of this competition to the emirate has caused much controversy, especially because of the working conditions of the workers for the construction of stadiums. The dates of the event were also moved in winter, because in summer the weather conditions would have been unbearable, both for the sportsmen and the fans. Anyway, I hope that the party will be at the rendezvous as every four years! The practical side is that Qatar is a very small country: it will be easy to go from one stadium to another to follow the matches, while being based in the same place. Once we have the necessary information, I will publish on my blog an article with all the practical information to attend the competition ... So keep posted if you like football!
Note: I realized this trip in partnership with the tourist office of Qatar. All opinions and impressions are unique to me
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